Northern Arizona: Beyond the Canyon

When some people think of northern Arizona they think Grand Canyon (yes go!), Sedona (so awesome), Route 66, and maybe the rest is a cactus desert? Ok you’re not totally wrong, but if you roll through the state and check off your bucket list, do not overlook some of the coolest and less visited treasures of this area! When you get get your jaw off the floor and recover a little from the canyon itself, there are a number of other super worthwhile sites to explore nearby (relatively).  We really just scratched the surface, but here’s a list of some amazing spots to visit:

• Desert View Watchtower:  Near the east entrance to Grand Canyon park stands this impressive structure built in 1932 by Mary Colter “architect of the Southwest” who was also responsible for many of the historic buildings in Grand Canyon Village.  Climb the 70-foot Anasazi style tower for incredible views all the way up to Marble Canyon.
• Sunset Crater Volcano:  Meander easy to moderate trails snaking through stark lava fields, and marvel at this amazing volcano – one of 600 in the area – that blew its top just a short 1000 years ago covering almost 900 square miles with ash and cinder. Some of the trails are paved and easily accessible to all (including pets)!
• Wupatki Pueblo: Take a walk back through time at this Hopi dwelling site dating back to 1100, which has over 100 beautifully preserved rooms, a sport court (yep pickle ballers that wasn’t your idea), and a geologically mysterious “breathing” blow hole.  This is a super entertaining spot for the whole family.

• Meteor Crater – The world’s best preserved meteor impact site is nearly 1 mile across, and boasts a fascinating history (Wes Anderson not withstanding) and an impressive small science museum. DID YOU KNOW? Every astronaut who has walked on the moon to date, including Neil Armstrong, Alan Shepard and Buzz Aldrin, trained in Flagstaff and northern Arizona including at this site. Peering into the massive crater definitely evokes an off-Earth vibe!

• Lowell Observatory – Founded in 1894, this is the observatory credited with the discovery of Pluto, among many other things.  They offer daytime programs about deep space, and nighttime planetarium shows and star gazing events, as well as awesome summer science camps for kids! Flagstaff was designated as the world’s first International Dark Sky Place by the International Dark-Sky Association.
• Montezuma Castle National Monument: 800 years ago the Sinagua people built a high rise apartment complex into the cliffs along a fertile creek.  Wander the interpretive trail, learn about how the people used local trees and plants, peer into the windows, and stop for a lovely shaded picnic along the creek near the Visitor Center.

• Walnut Canyon National Monument – This fascinating and beautiful cliff dwelling site is set in a lush and magnificent canyon. Hike the 1-mile loop trail to visit more than 25 original dwelling sites thought to have been used by successive peoples from 600 to about 1400. Note that there are a lot of stairs on this hike (it is a cliff after all!).

• Flagstaff – The stepping off point for many destinations in northern Arizona, this charming town is a great resource for outfitting any area adventure, plus a great stop for food, shopping and atmospheric Route 66 history. Trains run through town on a regular basis. We last counted one with over 120 cars!
• Jerome – Formerly known as the “Wickedest Town in the West,” this buzzing 19th-century copper mining town is perched precariously in the hills about 30 minutes west of Sedona.  Once the site of the largest copper mine in Arizona, today it is a designated National Historic District and is jammed full of shops, galleries, wineries and haunted hotels.  The views all the way back across the desert are unbelievable at sunset. Absolutely do not miss the Nellie Bly kaleidoscope store!
• London Bridge – I will leave it up to you to decide if Lake Havasu is your jam. It has a vibe. Maybe not my vibe but ??? However, being a total anglophile, I really had to see this infamous bridge formerly spanning the Thames, which was purchased, dismantled, cataloged, shipped through the Panama Canal and meticulously reassembled block by block (including the original lampposts) in this most unlikely spot on Earth. Get Ye Olde British fix at the foot of the bridge in the Village Shoppes complete with red telephone booths and City of London historical markers.

ON MY WISH LIST FOR NEXT TIME

• Painted Desert/Petrified Forest National Park – for petroglyphs, Triassic fossils, petrified wood, badlands, beautiful mesas and painted desert highlights. Plus it is pet friendly!
• Tuzigoot National Monument – 1000 year old hilltop pueblo site in the Verde River valley, with paleolithic origins over 10,000 years old, an archaeological museum and pet friendly trails.
• Antelope Canyon – Epic photogenic sandstone upper and lower canyons in the historic Navajo Tribal Park. Because of their spiritual significance, visits require an official guide and a permit.
• Monument Valley – Majestic sandstone buttes in Navajo Tribal Park along the Arizona Utah border.
• Vermillion Cliffs National Monument – This remote and hard to access wilderness area is home to a growing population of endangered California condors as well as incredible landscapes. This one is going to take some planning though…
• Colorado River – My husband and I had the once-in-a-lifetime privilege (understatement) of rafting down this magnificent and daunting river with friends a couple years ago which is an epic story all its own, but which also left me with an awareness of SO much remaining to see and learn. Here are a few specific spots I’d like to go back for:
  • Horseshoe Bend – 1.5 mile hike to overlook a breathtaking river bend in the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area.
  • Marble Canyon/Lee’s Ferry
  • Hoover Dam
  • Emerald Cave – kayak tours to a pristine crystal cave, yes please…