Bath: A Quick Dip

“Oh! Who can ever be tired of Bath!” – Jane Austen

Just a short jaunt on the train from London lies the lovely Georgian hamlet of Bath: cream tea heaven, thermal spa extravaganza and Jane Austen/Bridgerton mecca (not equating these media, just their fans). It’s tempting to dip in (so sorry) for a quick visit, but it’s also nice to steep yourself (sorry again) at a more luxurious pace. It truly feels like stepping through time into a more genteel and orderly world.

I spent several blissful days in Bath with my scone-loving, Anglophile, bookworm of a daughter, and although April was more of a shower than a bath, we thoroughly enjoyed meandering stone streets, Spring garden hopping, quietly poring through books over high tea, and of course taking the waters.

SIGHTS: For bucket list purposes, you can easily plunge through the major sights in a day. Check check check. And do so because they’re very very nice!

• Roman Baths – This is the main event in town so buy your tickets in advance. Don’t miss the archaeological collection including the Beau Street Hoard of over 17,000 coins excavated from the construction site of the Gainsborough Hotel. Since the water was declared hazardously unclean in the 1970’s you can no longer swim in the baths, but if you NEED to interact with the water you can sample it from the fountain in the adjacent Pump Room restaurant. Um I’ll pass though.
• Bath Abbey – The fan vaulted ceiling in this ethereal space is just about the prettiest thing on earth. I also particularly love the angels free climbing ladders to heaven on the West Facade.
• No. 1 The Royal Crescent – See how the Georgian aristocracy spent the social season in Bath as you tour the first townhouse built in the Royal Crescent, now also famously the fictional home of Bridgerton’s Featherington family.
• Holburne Museum – The elaborate 19th-century home and decorative arts collection of Sir William Holburne was recently updated with a striking glass addition, and is known for its excellent collection of paintings by Thomas Gainsborough (a Bath local), as well as a strong program of contemporary exhibitions.

THE GREAT OUTDOORS: Make time to explore some of the heavenly civilized gardens throughout town.

• Bath City Parade Gardens – There’s a small fee to enter these charming riverside gardens, but the ambiance and the view of the Pulteney Bridge are worth it.
• Royal Crescent and Royal Victoria Park – Take in the iconic Georgian splendor and meander the adjacent park and Victorian gardens.
• Botanical Gardens – A short walk from the Royal Crescent, these lovely bountiful botanical gardens are worth a small detour.
• Riverside path – Cross the Pulteney Bridge to access the scenic riverside path that runs along the Avon.
• Bath Lookout at Alexandra Park – If you need to work off those scones, cross the river and hike up the Jacob’s Ladder stairs for excellent Bath views.

LITERARY LINGERING: You could log some luxurious days just bookstore browsing and finding a nook to curl up and read in. What’s your hurry?

• Jane Austen Centre – All things Jane Austen, including period dress, a house tour and of course high tea. This is sort of a “must do” if you must. Oh! Exciting! The annual Jane Austen Festival in September will celebrate the author’s 250th birthday with ten days of parades, costume balls and special events. Dig out your Empire waisted satin and meet me there!
• Magalleria – The best collection of specialist and independent magazines offers something for everyone!
• Persephone Books – This celebrated publisher focuses on of out-of-print books by women authors. Be careful, you’ll want one of each just for their beautiful jacket design.
• Mr B’s – Named the UK’s best independent bookshop and one of the ten best bookshops in the world, this bookshop invites you to get lost in the labyrinth of cozy spaces. Check the schedule for author talks!
• Topping Company – This enchanting independent bookstore has floor to ceiling everything. They also offer a “coffee with a bookseller” service where you can enjoy a 1:1 book recommendation consultation.

STAY AND SPA

• The Gainsborough Bath Spa – The grand baths in this lovely refined hotel are absolutely the best, and hotel guests get special hours to themselves. I took a float in the beautiful central bath at least twice a day.
• Thermae Bath Spa – This extensive thermal spa has indoor and rooftop baths sourced from the same spring as the original Roman baths. Don’t worry it’s filtered!
• Eight – If you want a more boutique hotel experience, how charming does this look?
• The Yard – This Michelin recommended boutique hotel also looks elegant and snug.
• Royal Crescent Hotel and Spa – Luxury hotel situated in the middle of the famous Georgian Crescent. It really doesn’t get more Bath than this!

FOOD AND FOODIE FUN

• The Elder – Elegant and delicious gastropub. Don’t miss.
• The Architect – Excellent traditional pub fare in a beautiful turn of the century Bath Stone building overlooking the river.
• The Ivy – I love the Ivy restaurants. Such pretty whimsical decor and refined but not stuffy menus.
• The Botanist – This festive gastropub is known for brunch, Sunday roasts and live music in a beautiful historic space.
• Green Street Butcher – Unreal sandwiches and hot food to go. Try the porchetta or the chicken. You won’t make it to the end of the block…
• Sally Lunns Tea Room – Arrive early or prepare to queue at the oldest house in Bath, where Solange Luyon (aka Sally Lunn) created the original “Bath bun,” beloved of Jane Austin and prepared to the original recipe in the shop. It’s quite good, and there’s a sweet little kitchen museum as well.
• Pulteney Bridge – Try to get a window seat at one of the tiny tea shops overlooking the river, either Poppy’s Bakery or the Pulteney Bridge Coffee Shop.
• Bath Farmers Market – Open on Saturdays from 9:00 am – 1:00 pm. Just what it sounds like! Lots of yummy local products to discover.
• Everyman Cinema Bath – Enjoy a night out at this swanky movie theater with comfy couches, fancy cocktails and bar bites.
• The Little Theater – This charming two screen movie theater and cafe/bar dates to 1935 and shows first run, art house, live streaming films and more.