Côte des Basques: Beachy Bliss

“I do not know a place more charming and magnificent. I only have one fear: that it will become fashionable.” — Victor Hugo

There is something about Biarritz… In the heart of the Côte Basque, it has all the lovely aspects of Basque culture woven into the regional French ethos with undeniably delicious, elegant, and relaxing results. It is clean and refined but not stuffy. It is the best kind of beachy with epic sandy vistas, gorgeous surf breaks, and spectacular sunsets. Of course there are tourists, but not the kind that arrive by the busload or the shipload. The shopkeepers are hip and artistic but not superior or unfriendly. For all of its resort appeal, it also feels like a place that people really live and have community and roots. It’s a place that invites you to return and stay awhile – and I just might!

Here are a few of our favorites from our visit this summer. Much to still discover of course!!

SIGHTS

Le Rocher de la Vierge – Formerly used as a lookout point for whale watching, this is the best point for views up and down the coast.
Le Phare de Biarritz – Historic lighthouse with lovely views of the town and the sea.
La Plage de la Côte des Basques – Biarritz is considered the birthplace of surfing in Europe with the first surfers arriving with a movie crew in 1956. This long sandy beach is the iconic surfing destination for this part of the coast, with lifeguards and designated sections for swimming.
Le Port des Pecheurs – It would be easy to miss this charming little port with its whitewashed crampottes (fishermen’s cabins) and restaurants serving the freshest catch of the day.
Le Port Vieux – This sheltered cove is fantastic for swimming and rimmed with chill local restaurants and bars.

SHOP

Calixte – A tiny gem of a gallery with all sorts of exquisite art and home goods.
Rue Gambetta – Lined with unique little boutiques.
Halles Biarritz – The beautiful central market is surrounded by outdoor stalls offering all sorts of lovely locally made products.

STAY

Hotel du Palais – Even if you don’t stay here, you must stop by the lovely terrace for a drink or tea. In 1854 Emperor Napoléon III built this “villa” as a token of his love for the Empress Eugénie, and it became the summer residence for the imperial couple and their court. Today it is an opulent hotel with beautiful gardens and great views back over Biarritz.
Hôtel Le Garage Biarritz – Adorable boutique hotel just north of the city center.
Hotel de la Plage – Great location overlooking the sheltered beach at Port Vieux.

EAT

Bistrot du Haou – unassuming but excellent bistro
Breizh Café Biarritz – The BEST Brittany creperie has an outpost across from the cathedral.
Café Loky – Friendly delicious coffee to start your day. The chai tea lattes are excellent as well.
Casa Juan Pedro – Super casual portside table at Port des Pecheurs for carafes of rosé and excellent fresh seafood.
Halles Biarritz – Absolutely pristine gorgeous fresh food hall and market. You can go to the fish section and have them shuck fresh oysters for you to consume on the spot with a crisp cold glass of local Txakoli wine. Don’t miss our favorite sandwich stop (we went three times!)
L’Artnoa Maison – Fantastic wine shop with small bites to pair. The fun spills out onto the street every night!
Little Trallallà Biarritz – For when you just need a really really really good pizza.
The Bathers rooftop bar at the Roc Seven Biarritz – Chic spot for cocktails, dinner, dessert and sunset overlooking the Port Vieux.
Saline Ceviche Bar – Super fresh ceviche in a lively corner location

Here are a few other recommendations collected from friends and beyond:

Ardi Beltza – Family-style feasts next to a pelota court, a Basque ball game dating back to the 1600’s.
Bar Basque – for tapas and darts
Bar Etxola Bibi -Steps up from the main beach for cocktails, pintxos and sunset views.
Carlos – Another prime sunset spot.
Cheri Bibi – Casual modern bistro serving creative tapas in a festive outdoor courtyard.
De Puta Madre – beautiful garden restaurant south of town
Eden Rock Café – casual cocktails and tapas perched on the rocks overlooking Plage du Port Vieux
Frenchie – An outpost of the popular Paris restaurant inside the Regina Experimental hotel.
Freya – vegetarian fine dining
Jack the Cockerel – sleek bar restaurant terrace facing the Grande Plage.
Le Bar Jean – Tapas, pinxtos and classics served until late at this staple bistro outside the Market.
Le Café du Commerce – Outside the Market
Maison Adam Patisserie – for macarons and Basque cake

And a little farther afield:

La Nord – (Hossegor) Asian flair to Basque classics like 12-hour roast pork shoulder.
Le Bar Basque – (Capbreton) Old school for moules frites and croquettes
Marius – Hillside farm fresh fine dining with a view.

DAY TRIPS:

My next trip to this area is going to be a town-to-town road trip. There are so many places to discover along the coast and inland:

Bayonne – Situated at the convergence of two rivers, this ancient town has a lovely central market and of course lots of deliciousness all around. It is most famous for the local ham (jambon de Bayonne) and some of the best chocolate in France.
San Jean de Luz – Six miles south of Biarritz with a beautiful grand beach and a charming walled village, this town was a whaling center, a pirate hideout, and the 1660 site of the wedding of King Louis XIV to the Infanta Maria Teresa of Spain. For a taste of the past grab a box of macarons from Maison Adam made with the same secret recipe prepared for the royal wedding. Explore the pedestrian rue Léon Gambetta lined with shops and food. Don’t miss the Dunes Blanches Chez Pascal for ethereal chou à la crème (cream puffs), and Canelés Baillardran for these unique eggy little bites. Can you time it to attend the annual festival Jun 19-24?
Ciboure – Formerly a European center for tuna, sardine fishing and canning, this little town is connected across the harbor by a single bridge to San Jean de Luz. Time your visit to catch the Sunday market, wave to Maurice Raval’s house, and visit the innovative winemaker at EGIATEGIA, who ages wines in vats submerged in the bay. Try to catch one of the summer races of the traditional Estropadak and Batteleku fishing boats. Grab lunch at La Table de Megumi, a quaint Japanese-influenced spot on the harbor.
Bidart – Surf town down the coast. Visit the Moulin de Bassilour watermill for a freshly made gâteau basque (a cake with a creamy filling and orange zest)
Espelette – Famous for the chili peppers used in Basque cuisine, but also worth a visit for the pretty village with a pedestrian center bordered by artisans shops and restaurants with picturesque white facades decorated with chilis.
Ainhoa – Tucked into the mountains, this is considered to be one of the most beautiful and traditional Basque villages.
Guéthary – Cool little Basque fishing village six miles south of Biarritz with weathered boats, a dry dock wharf, terrace bars, a sweet town square with year round festivals, pelota games and shows, and epic surf spots.