“Crete,’ I murmured. ‘Crete…’, And my heart beat fast.”
Nikos Kazantzakis, Zorba the Greek
When I was very young, my father used to sit in my darkened room with a cigar (simmer down it was the 70’s…) and lull me to sleep with fabulous tales of Greek gods, goddesses and heroes, peppered with sea monsters, satyrs, Minotaurs and other magical creatures. As an art historian he had a seemingly endless repertory of enchanting mythological characters to draw upon, and he was a master at bringing them each to life. I was hooked. When 6th grade rolled around and the standard “Ancient Worlds” segment showed up at school, I was beyond thrilled. I devoured Mary Renault’s wonderful books on Theseus, which vividly illuminated the distant past in a way I have never forgotten. At age 11, I vowed to visit Crete as soon as I could get myself there.
OK flash forward just a few short years (hah!) to the present day. Actually to my most recent birthday (!) when I finally finally finally set foot on this southernmost isle of Greece, moored on its own deep in the southern Mediterranean. Unsurprisingly, I was enchanted by the ancient ruins, endless olive and citrus groves, rocky rolling gorges, mountains and seascapes, little stone towns, majestic Venetian ports, winding roads, and wafts of wild herbs on the breeze.
We chose to visit outside of the super intense summer season (crowds, heat, crowds!) but found the island still pretty hopping mid-October (yes I’m a Libra!!) both with locals and cruise ship and ferry visitors. Nevertheless, we were never scorched, never truly squished, and never had trouble getting into important sites or great restaurants. The weather for our trip was a little cool and breezy so we focused on land-based activities like eating and road tripping rather than boating and beaches. We are definitely returning for those, but that is for another day.
EXTRAORDINARILY OLD THINGS
Obviously for me archaeology was one of the main reasons to visit. You can’t swing a cat (and believe me there are an astounding number of feline residents on Crete) without running across a rock pile exuding centuries and often millennia of layers and lore. It is impossible not to be immersed in the epic breadth of human habitation here, and to be humbled by the comparatively brevity of the “civilization” we call our own. You don’t have to be an historian to appreciate the deep sense of human history here. You’ll absorb it by osmosis at the very least!
SEASIDE CITIES
We spent our week hopping between the northern port cities of Heraklion, Rethymno and Chania, each featuring beautiful Venetian harbors and fortifications. Some of the highlights for us included:
- Knossos (near Heraklion) – This extensively reassembled Bronze Age site is the world famous site of Thesesus and the Minotaur, although spoiler alert there is no labyrinth here. Figure out your tickets in advance for sure – it’s a major destination! The tours are probably interesting but wow there are a lot of people in each group. The ticket includes a long PDF guide and a self guided app for our phones which was plenty for us.
- Archaeology Museum (Heraklion) – My inner art history nerd was super blown away by the extensive artifacts from Knossos, especially the gorgeous ceramics, so delicate and beautiful. If you go to one museum it should be this one!
- Museum of Ancient Greek Technology (Heraklion) – Hands down one of our favorite stops, where you can admire all kinds of war machines, automatons, astronomical clocks, an analog computer, ingenious building tools and other technological advancements of the ancient world.
- Historical Museum of Crete (Heraklion) – a cultural collection of costume, musical instruments, religious icons, and more in a beautiful old building across from the sea.
- Etz Hayyim Synagogue – (Chania) The Jewish community of Crete was decimated during WWII (only 12 survivors were documented), but in 1999 this abandoned 14th-century complex was restored in partnership with the World Monuments Fund. As the only active synagogue in Crete, it’s absolutely worth stopping in to learn more about this important little enclave.
- Maritime Museum of Crete – (Chania) Ship model enthusiasts and maritime history buffs will be in heaven in this extensive exhibition in the old Venetian fortress. It is also a (sometimes bleak) reminder of how important maritime defense has always been to an island beset by invaders from all directions for thousands of years. Navigate the harbor perimeter as you leave (you’ll want to do this anyway) to discover the original Venetian shipyards, and grab a coffee inside one of the massive original shipbuilding vaults.
EASY ONE DAY ROAD TRIPS
It would be hard to get around the island without a rented car. There are many day tours you can organize from the main towns with tour companies, but we had a lot of fun just winging in on the windy roads across the island on our own schedule. Here are three single day road trip suggestions:
From Rethymno:
- Start at Agreco Farm which offers tours, cooking classes and a taverna. Definitely call ahead to confirm they are open and find out what is on!
- Arkadi Monastery – For over eight centuries this beautiful complex has housed an active Greek Orthodox monastery. It is absolutely worth a stop to learn about its storied history and wander its serene stone buildings.
- Eleftherna – This was one of my favorite archaeological sites of the island. It is much less visited and is situated on a dramatic ridge in the foothills of Mount Ida. Its many elements unveil themselves like a scavenger hunt as you hike along the way. Don’t miss the cisterns!
- Margarites village – Meander this charming artisan ceramics village lined with numerous little shops up and down the street.
- Taverna Giannousakis (Margarites) – Settle in for a delicious traditional lunch on the scenic patio.
- Cretanthos Olive Park & Museum – this is a small but cleverly presented “museum” garden of ancient olive trees and other native plants. You can actually taste and buy limited edition olive oil pressed from trees that are 2,300 years old! If this isn’t old enough for you, nearby you can also visit the oldest documented olive tree in the world (we didn’t get to this but wow) at Ano Vouves Kissamou Chani.
- Athos Workshop – A sweet local family welcomes you to their charming hand-built workshop brimming with organic olive oil soaps, skincare products and essential oils meticulously made from the family olive farm.
From Heraklion:
- Take the 97 south from the city and there are several wineries and olive farms along the way if you want to stop for tastings. You can also make a short detour to the hilltop ancient Minoan town of Rizinia for panoramic views.
- Labyrinth Cave. This is a little hard to find, but it was very cool and evoked the mythological labyrinth much more than anywhere else. There was even a little string leading away into the dark…..
- Gortyna – The largest archaeological site on Crete dates from neolithic through Byzantine ages and includes extensive ruins on both sides of the road that you can wander about. This is supposedly the site where Europa was raped by Zeus and conceived king Minos under a 1000 year old tree.
- Minoan Palace of Phaistos – we ran out of time for this (aka got hungry) but I am definitely going back to check out this enormous Minoan archaeological site, second only to Knossos.
- Matala – Hungry yet? Cut down to this artsy seaside village to learn about the town’s hippie history, dig into a plate of fresh catch at a charming waterfront restaurant, and explore the enigmatic cave system on the hillside overlooking the bay.
From Chania:
- Botanical Garden of Crete – This is one of the most extensive collections of global medicinal, herbal, and ornamental plants I have ever seen in one place, set along a beautiful path through terraced hills, complete with donkeys and peacocks. The restaurant on site serves many dishes gleaned from the huge garden and cooked in an open fireplace. Serious yum.
- Lake Kournas – The largest freshwater lake on the island is a lovely family destination with sweet paddle boats and lots of birds. Traditional wood fired “antikristo” grills outside the tavernas lining the shore fill the air with the mouthwatering aromas of sausage, lamb and chicken.
RESTAURANTS
Note: online restaurant searches turn up “best” lists, but they rarely include the casual tavernas that pepper the city side streets and country lanes across the island. Outside of major tourist zones, I feel like you can’t go wrong popping into any one of these for a high quality taste of what’s local.
Heraklion:
- Peskesi – everything on the menu at this lovely little jewel tucked away on a side street is grown on the farm. Next time we go back we are arranging a farm tour and/or cooking class
- Apiri Greek Eatery
- Pagopoieion – cozy terraced gallery restaurant overlooking the cathedral square. Great for lunch.
- Herbs’ Garden – pretty little rooftop perch with spectacular views over the harbor serving excellent traditional Cretan dishes
- Tiny Rebels – sweet corner spot for nice coffee off the main drag
- Pasiphae Restaurant – just up the street from the entrance to Knossos.
Rethymno:
- Avli – super charming and delicious courtyard restaurant with wonderful local dishes and wine.
- La Boheme – tucked inside an old Venetian mansion.
Chania:
- Tamam – straddling the alley on the site of a former Turkish bath, this was one of our favorite restaurants for excellent traditional food.
- Oinoa – lovely terrace restaurant/wine bar atop a beautiful Venetian building. The owner is extremely knowledgeable about local winemakers.
- La Bodega – excellent little wine bar on the harbor next to the Maritime Museum. Again, ask the owner about local wine!
- Almy Vita – more of a splurgy fine dining vibe at this upscale spot right on the water.
WHAT TO EAT AND DRINK
- Raki/Tsikoudia – we were served a shot or a small bottle of this at almost every restaurant after our meal. Made from the residue of fresh grapes pressed during winemaking it packs a punch!
- Local wine! Such good whites especially and few make it off the island so sample and enjoy.
- Cheese – of course
- Wild Cretan herbs – many places serve an herbal tea that is super satisfying and also apparently very healthful
- Lamb – chops yes of course, but many places have their own recipes for epic braised lamb so don’t miss that!
- Cretan salad
- Fresh fish
- Rusks – like an oversize crouton
- Smoked sausages with vinegar – just wow I have never had such a thing.
- Wild greens sauteed
- Greens “pie” in phyllo or pita
- Squash blossoms – stuffed with either cheese or rice
- Chochlioi – local snails
MOVIES/TV
- Zorba the Greek – Starring Anthony Quinn, and based on the book by Nikos Kazantzakis. An Englishman travels to Crete and finds his life changed forever by the enigmatic Alexis Zorba.
- El Greco – Biographical film about the life of the famous Greek-born painter of the Spanish Renaissance.
- Kaos – Jeff Goldblum stars in this bingeable Netflix series that reimagines Greek mythology in the modern world. Lots of great cameos as well. (it wasn’t actually filmed in Crete but the story is set there).
RESOURCES
- Eater – An Eater’s Guide to Crete very good article about the food history of Crete
- Food & Wine – Why This Island is Considered the Culinary Capital of Greece
- Conde Nast Traveler – An Essential Guide to Crete
