Paris: Beyond the Bucket List

“Paris is always a good idea.”

– Audrey Hepburn

If you have just a second in Paris by all means pop around and see the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay, the Eiffel Tower, Sacré Coeur and Notre Dame. I would not deprive you of these magnificent stops, and no guilt if this is all you get to. You could spend several days inside the Louvre itself!

However, if the karma fairies are kind enough to grant you another visit (or 10!), or an extended stay (heavens thank you!) , then please delve a little deeper…you will often escape the throngs and feel like you have served yourself a delicious slice of this magical city that is all your own.

You don’t have to be an art aficionado to enjoy any of these destinations, as they are each little respites of beauty in themselves. Take a moment to step off the buzzing streets of Paris to linger and learn, or just meander and breathe.

CULT OF PERSONALITY

• Musée Yves Saint Laurent – Wend your way through the gorgeous HQ of the haute couture legend who created his iconic designs here for over 30 years. Peek behind the scenes into the designer’s actual studio, strewn with idea boards, sketches and fabric samples, as if Yves himself just stepped out to Prunier for a leisurely lunch.
• La Galerie Dior – This immersive fashion extravaganza opened to hoards of enthusiasts in 2020. Book ages in advance to get a ticket!

• Maison Gainsbourg – Fans of the provocative French pop legend have lovingly layered graffiti onto the facade of the artist’s former home for decades. As of Fall 2023, you can finally get inside to soak up the cool through all sorts of memorabilia, jewelry, writing and artworks, with a tantalizing bookshop and café/piano bar as well.

• Panthéon – OK history buffs – it’s Foucault’s Pendulum! Originally demonstrated in 1851 at the Paris Panthéon, it scientifically proved the rotation of the Earth. It’s really pretty awesome to see it live in action. In addition, this elegant (if a little overbearing) mausoleum is worth a visit to gawp at the tombs of scores of France’s most famous men including Voltaire, Emile Zola, Victor Hugo and many others. Oh and six whole women too: Marie Curie, Josephine Baker, Geneviève de Gaulle-Anthonioz, Germaine Tillion, Sophie Berthelot and Simone Veil.

ART AND ESCAPE

• Fondation Giacometti – This Art Deco mansion and former studio of interior designer Paul Follot is now an homage to one of my favorite 20th century artists. The gorgeous library and bookstore are worth a visit on their own, but there is also a lovely small collection, a reconstruction of the artist’s studio, and modeling and art history classes for adults.

• Fondation Cartier – Instantly transition out of the city as you enter the enchanted forest and etherial glass Jean Nouvel designed art space off the busy Boulevard Raspail. Rotating exhibitions of contemporary artists, live performances, a really excellent bookstore, and the most serene garden make this stop a great mental reset.

• Musée Maillol – Housed in an ornate 18th-century convent, this museum of the iconic French sculptor (another of my favorites!) was realized in 1995 by the artist’s muse Dina Vierny. I first went to see the permanent collection (lovely), but happily realized that there’s also a fantastic program of temporary exhibitions by modern photographers and artists as well.

• Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris (MAM) – I literally ducked in on a rainy February morning and… “What is wrong with me – how have I never been here before?” This soaring space is chock full of modern and contemporary faves, including Raoul Dufy’s huge frescoes of Paris life, Matisse’s room-sized mural La Danse, and Sonja Delaunay’s colossal color abstractions that I could just visually gobble up all day. Not to mention the seriously photogenic Tour Eiffel views across the river…

Art history nerd alert! You might need to look away… Check out this painting in the MAM collection by the artist Eduard Vuillard of Aristide Maillol working on his beautiful monumental sculpture L’Air, next to the model for the sculpture from the artist’s studio, the finished marble sculpture in the Musée Maillol, and the bronze version from the Kimbell Art Museum where I grew up. Well, it’s cool to me…

OK OK. Back to business…

• Musée Picasso – This is so NOT a secret, but it’s still absolutely worth visiting the world’s most extensive collection of Picasso’s prolific work in the incredibly grand 17th-century Hôtel Salé. Reserve tickets well in advance in the summer for sure.

• Fondation Louis Viutton – Make the small journey to visit this Frank Gehry-designed labyrinthine gallery in the Bois de Boulogne regardless of what is on view. Get lost among the undulating walls and meandering stairwells to reveal an expansive view of the city from a hidden terrace. Turn a corner to pause in an unexpectedly reverent space. It’s contemplative, pop, expressionist, music and sound encased in a dynamic shell.

• Musée de l’Orangerie – I try to immerse myself in the serene circular oasis of Monet’s waterlily room whenever possible. There’s a reason everyone loves Monet and this is it for me.

COOL OLD STUFF

• Crypte Archéologique de l’İle de la Cité – Notre Dame is of course a visitor’s staple, but did you know that directly in front of the lovely lady there is an underground Roman city? Escape the sun and the crowds as you step down into the past to wend your way through 2,000 years of ancient, classical and mediaeval layers of city beneath the city.
• Paris Catacombs – So creepy and historic and cool. Do it. These are a big draw though so get tix way in advance, ideally directly from the official catacombs website (apparently there is some ticket fraud going on), and consider splurging on the Skip the Line tickets to save yourself literally hours of queues. Yes take the audio tour.
• Musée Carnavalet – I know it sounds boring. The history of Paris museum. But, in addition to spanning two super cool old rambling 16th-century mansions, it’s actually crammed with all kinds of gee whiz historical objects and oddities, items found at the bottom of the Seine, a scale model of Paris, Napoleon’s campaign kit, Marcel Proust’s bedroom (quoi?!). What won’t you find? Also – it’s FREE!
• House of Nicolas Flamel – Harry Potter nerd alert! Odd symbols adorn the oldest standing home in Paris (it’s sorta crooked actually). Dating from 1407, the house was the residence of the famous alchemist whom many believe to have achieved immortality through his discovery of the mystical Philosopher’s Stone. It’s closed to the public. Maybe because he still lives there?

WISH LIST

I’m trying to stick to a “No Repeats” policy in Paris so next time I am adding these unexplored gems to my agenda:

• Musee Cluny – Medieval museum, home of the famous Lady and the Unicorn tapestry and situated atop one of the largest preserved Roman baths in northern Europe.
• Musee Art et Metiers – 200 year old museum of scientific inventions and design. The original Foucault’s Pendulum is here, as well as the original model for the Statue of Liberty, a working airplane possibly predating the Wright brothers contraption and much more.
• Musée des Arts Forains/Pavillons de Bercy – Collection of 19th and 20th century carousels and carnival art. Ok this one’s a maybe.
• Deyrolle – Taxidermy, entomology, cabinet of curiosities. Yes please.
• Musee des Arts Decoratifs – Decorative arts museums are my jam. This one is huge. Will report back.
• 59 Rivoli – 30 artist studios open to the public.

And honestly there’s a whole bunch more on my list! I’m never really finished where Paris is concerned!

A bientôt!!