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Iceland: Adventures in Fire and Ice

1 month ago

“I have fantasies of going to Iceland, never to return.” – Edward Gorey

Majestic volcanoes tower over sheer cliffs and steaming foothills sweep down to the churning frozen sea. Swaths of purple lupine frame impossible waterfalls which resolve into roiling azure rivers of pure glacial melt.  Any sense of scale is gleaned intermittently from tiny red farmhouses and fields dotted with diminutive horses in a rainbow of hues. The…SORRY! SORRY! I’ll stop. It’s really hard to resist gushing such florid language in one of the most wild and beautiful places on earth. Go. You’ll see and you’ll forgive me…

Iceland is the size of Kentucky with just a little over 390,000 people, 60% of whom live in the capital of Reykjavík.  Just a few minutes drive from the center of town you’re on a straight two lane road stretching off into the distance. If you remain on this path you will drive the whole way round (in a couple of weeks…). To see Iceland you will need to rent a car or join a tour group or hire a driver. There are no buses or subways or trains.

English speakers struggle not to completely garble pretty much anything in the Icelandic language, but everyone speaks perfect English, and Icelanders are very hospitable. 

It’s incredibly safe.  Iceland was the most peaceful country in the world in 2024, according to the Global Peace Index (GPI), and has held this title since the GPI was first published. 

Despite the fact that there has been a huge increase in tourism in the past 10 years, it still feels unspoiled and uncrowded.  The food is super local, traditional and incredibly fresh, and you can literally drink from the extremely clean streams.

We visited during the summer solstice so the sun never set during our visit (eye masks!).   There are TONS of incredible sites throughout the country so in 7 days we missed far far more than we saw, but every day was completely full of unique experiences.  Needless to say we are already scheming a return…

Important Note: Most of Iceland is a volcanic icy wilderness with ever changing conditions. It is definitely important to plan your trip around current weather, eruptions and other events. Safe Travel Iceland has a good list of updates and a map of current travel conditions.

Neat facts!

  • Settled in the 800’s, Iceland was one of the last places on Earth to be inhabited by humans.
  • The Icelandic language is so close to the original version of Norwegian that modern Icelanders can read 1,000 year old Norse texts.
  • The government is one of the world’s oldest democracies, with the first parliament elected in 930.
  • Iceland had both the first elected female prime minister and first openly gay prime minister (same person).  
  • The little Island is the most active volcanic area in the world, with eruptions about every 4 years.
  • About 85% of the country’s energy comes from geothermal and hydroelectric energy sources.
  • You can stand in two continents where the European and North American continental plates meet.
  • Reyjkavik is closer to Boston than Boston is to Los Angeles.

Our favorite foods

  • Lamb soup – it is different everywhere you try it, and you should try it anywhere you can because it is always delicious
  • Arctic char – like a cross between a salmon and a trout, these fish are the most common freshwater fish in the country.
  • Einstok white beer on tap – crisp and refreshing
  • Butter – Icelandic butter is one of the best things I have ever put in my mouth
  • Skyr – a cross between Greek-style yogurt and a soft cheese eaten by almost all Icelanders for breakfast. It’s so much better in situ than the version of “Skyr” you get in the US.
  • Fish and Chips – I am not a big fried food girl but these can be ethereal here.
  • Cheese – local cheese is largely produced by cooperatives, and surprisingly we didn’t see local sheep cheese despite the fact that there are more sheep than people! But of course local cheese is always yum.
  • Egil’s Appelsin orange soda – just try it.
  • For a variety of ethical reasons and personal culinary boundaries we did NOT eat:  horse meat, minke whale, milk soaked sheep’s testicles, fermented shark. You do you.

REYKJAVÍK

See:

  • Reykjavík City Museum – right in the middle of the city you can step into an open excavation of the city’s Viking settlement.
  • Harpa – The most imposing, beautiful, controversial building in the country was built by architect/artist Olaffur Eliasson.  Many cultural events take place here throughout the year, including:
  • Keflavik (near the international airport)
    • Blue Lagoon – Definitely do this on your way in or out of the country as it’s near the airport. Now with a luxury hotel, spa and restaurant. Keep an eye on volcanic news though as the peninsula has been seeing a lot of volcanic activity recently!
    • The Icelandic Museum of Rock & Roll is currently closed but scheduled to reopen April 2025.

Eat:

  • The Reyjkavík Food Walk – with about 10 stops, it’s 3 hours deliciously well spent to learn all about the city’s incredible food scene. Don’t miss, but maybe learn from our mistakes. We took this walk with our two young children after a red-eye flight from the West Coast…with mixed results…
  • Mokka-Kaffi for coffee.
  • Sægreifinn (The Sea Baron) – for the famous lobster bisque.
  • Baejarins – for hot dogs. Yes I do not usually recommend hot dogs, but this is sort of a “must do.”
  • Apotek – great breakfast morphs into elegant and popular lunch/dinner. 
  • SKY Bar – tallest bar in Iceland on the 8th floor of Center Hotels Arnarhvoll has beautiful views of Harpa and the sea.
  • There are many many new restaurants since we last visited so here are a couple of good articles to help you research where to feast!

Stay:

SOUTH ICELAND

Spend a night or two exploring the coast southeast of the capital by car. There is so much to see and some of the most breathtaking scenery of our trip was just along this road!

See:

“There is no more sagacious animal than the Icelandic horse. He is stopped by neither snow, nor storm, nor impassable roads, nor rocks, glaciers or anything.” – Jules Verne, Journey to the Center of the Earth

Farms across the south are populated by these adorable little creatures descended from mixed European horses brought by settlers in the 800’s. Today they are one of the purest breeds in the world.  Like a bowl of marbles they come in every conceivable color from appaloosa and palomino to the beautiful “silver bay” smoky dark with a blond mane.  They’re super friendly with fluffy manes and puppy dog expressions – you’ll see tourists along the road just stopping to pet them.  Adorable.  Try to book a ride somewhere to experience the two gaits unique to the breed.  The tölt is somewhere between a walk and a trot and has to be the most comfortable ride you can experience on a four footed animal. 

  • Hella Horses – offer a beautiful 1½ hour tour through fields, forest and waterfalls.
  • Eldhester near Reyjkavik was also recommended

  • Seljalandsfoss waterfall – bring a waterproof jacket to hike around behind this enormous plume of water falling off a cliff.  Take time to hike up the path past a couple of smaller falls to Fljufrafoss waterfall and venture back into a cool cave to experience the falls from below.
  • LAVA Centre in the town of Hvolsvollur – includes a fascinating documentary of the farm which was nearly obliterated by the dramatic eruption of Eyjafjallajokull, the volcano that grounded air traffic across Europe in 2011.
  • Seljavllalaug Zwembad geothermal pool – built in 1923 one of the oldest outdoor geothermal swimming pools in Iceland.  It’s a 25-minute hike from the parking lot, and yes the pool is a little murky, but as we soaked I counted over 30 waterfalls in the hills around us.  Unforgettable.
  • Skogafoss waterfall – One of the biggest falls in Iceland at over 60 meters high, you can gawk from the bottom then hike the trail to the top, climb the sheep fence to find further falls on the path up the river.  Grab excellent Fish and Chips at the red food truck on your way in if it’s open.
  • Reynisdrangar – dramatic black basalt sea stacks at a moody black sand beach.  Grab a refreshment at the sleek Black Beach Restaurant  

We’re going back to see: 

Westmann Islands, Jokusarlon Glacier Lagoon, Wrecked DC-3 Plane on Solheimasandur (you have to hike in from the road), Cliffs of Dyrholaey – where the puffins nest. More about South Iceland

Stay/eat:

  • Hotel Vik – If you have kids ask for the family room with a cool loft.  The restaurant is great.  Try the amazing smoked lamb salad and rack of lamb.

GOLDEN CIRCLE

We took 2 nights and 2 days to explore here, but there are many day trips from Reykjavík if you are short on time and want to quickly catch the highlights.

See:

  • Thingvellir – Reserve ample time to explore this UNESCO World Heritage site, which is probably the most important location in Icelandic history and also one of the most geologically unique and cool places on earth.  Walk the easy path through the rift valley, don’t miss the  insane waterfall, and climb up to the visitor center on the top for gorgeous views. You can also go scuba diving here between two continental plates. Cold but cool?
  • Gulfoss waterfall – Iconic waterfall and easy to visit.
  • Geysir – Geothermal area and impressive geysir. Yup this is where the name comes from! There are no barriers so use your noodle and don’t get too close – we were downwind and almost got scalded…
  • Laugarvatn Fontana – This elegant geothermal spa, sauna and baths on a beautiful chilly lake could really only exist in Iceland. Take the cold plunge!
  • Kerid Crater – It is worth it to stop and take a quick hike around this beautiful blue crater lake

Stay: 

  • Mengi Kjarnholt – beautiful little bed and breakfast in a charming farmhouse
  • Hotel Grimsborgir  – Well-located luxurious hotel with rooms, full apartments and hot tubs.

Eat:

  • Geysir Hotel across the street from the famed geyser
  • Fridheimar Tomato Farm – Definitely have lunch at this geothermal powered tomato farm with a lovely little restaurant inside featuring everything tomato. In the summer they also offer stable visits and a horse show to learn about the Icelandic horses.
  • Efsti-Dalur II – Stop in this farm/hotel for a meal and/or delicious homemade ice cream
  • Linden – a lovely lakeside restaurant next to Laugarvatn spa
  • Tryggvaskali – one of our favorite restaurants for traditional Icelandic food with a great farmhouse atmosphere.  

We’re going back for: 

The Secret Lagoon in the little town of Fludir, Salt Eldhús for Icelandic cooking classes, scuba dive or snorkel in the Silfra fissure between the continental plates (UNESCO World Heritage site), Inside the Volcano to hike up and take an elevator into the center of a 4,000 year old dormant volcano!  Yikes cool!

WEST ICELAND

See:

  • The Settlement Center in Borgarnes – You can spend the next 10 years plowing through thousands of pages of complex Icelandic sagas, or you could just get the very entertaining immersive version here.  Try the lamb soup in the cafe (of course!)
  • Drive by the Eldborg Crater (or hike to the top!) and the striking Gerðuberg basalt cliffs.
  • Stikkisholmer charming seaside town with fascinating history
  • Library of Water – intriguing right?
  • Viking Sushi tour – Lurk in the hideouts of Eric the Red, coo at adorable nesting puffins, and feast on delicacies collected straight from the sea floor aboard this very comfy and beautiful boat with daily tours out of Stikkisholmer harbor.  One of our favorite outings of the trip.

We’re going back for:

  • Hike to Glymur – Iceland’s second tallest waterfall
  • Vatneshellir Cave– an 8,000 year old lava tube
  • Drive around the whole Snæfellsnes Peninsula for more beautiful scenery
  • Into the Glacier – tour of the massive ice tunnels of the second largest icecap in Iceland

Eat:

  • Narfeyrarstofa – Try the local mussels and scallops. Reservations are a must.
  • Sjavarpakkhusid – Charming and elegant small restaurant on the harbor
  • Nesbrauð ehf bakery – Look for the pretzel sign and duck in for delicious pastries, but don’t overlook the incredible mushroom soup.

RESOURCES

LISTEN! Iceland: Here’s a fun indie playlist to get you in the Icelandic mood.

There are a couple of interesting music festivals including the Dark Music

Check

READ! Iceland: From epic sagas, to Viking history, to Nobel Prize-winning fiction, to intense noir thrillers, the Icelandic literary world offers something for everyone.

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