Lima: Art and Soul in Barranco

Lima positively sprawls.  It’s huge, and as in other gargantuan cities, it’s the eclectic neighborhoods that make the urban scale palatable.  If you are headed to Machu Picchu or any other Peruvian destination, chances are you will have to stop through Lima for at least a night if you’re flying from the US. What’s your hurry? Slow down for a couple of days to check out the city’s incredible food scene and most enchanting corners.

Our favorite discovery on our most recent trip was the arty little hamlet of Barranco.  Situated along the clifftops at the southern end of the Bay of Lima, the streets are bathed in sweet ocean breezes and lined with with galleries, murals, enticing little cafes, concept stores and boutique hotels, many in lovingly restored colonial buildings with generous ceilings and shaded courtyards.  You can spend a delicious and delightful sojourn getting not quite lost in this charming town within the city.

WHAT TO SEE

• Lima Gourmet Company – The excellent private and group food tours through Barranco and Miraflores incorporate history and insights into the the Limeño lifestyle. Our guide was so passionate and knowledgeable, and even shared some of his favorite recipes. I would highly recommend this delicious tour!

• Parque Federico Villareal – This shady respite from the city is also home to dynamic sculpture installations.
• Iglesia La Ermita – You can’t miss this beautiful crumbling neo-Gothic church looming precariously above the neighborhood. Listed on the World Monuments Watch, its decaying roof and adobe structure seem destined to dissolve.
• Puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs) – Perch mid-span on this wooden pedestrian bridge above the arroyo that bisects the neighborhood for the best views of lush parks, colorful houses, bright street art and the slow pace of life going by below.
• Pacific Ocean – Wander to the west end of the neighborhood and peer over the edge of the precipitous cliffs for hypnotic views of rhythmic waves, beach clubs, and surfers far below.

MUSEUMS:

• Lima Museum of Contemporary Art
• Museo Pedro de Osma
• Jade Rivera – You’ll find beautiful murals around the neighborhood by this street artist whose work celebrates humanity and nature. Visit the museum, or pop into the gallery a couple of blocks away for smaller scale works and fun items to take home.

ART/SHOPPING:

• La Feria Unión – Peruse this hip corner courtyard filled with food stalls, local crafts and clothing.  Closed Monday/Tuesday.
• Libreria La Rebelde – Don’t miss this charming little bookstore that feels like you’re stepping into the lovely home of an elegant and eclectic book lover.
• Ka Concept Store – Shoppers will delight at this one-of-a-kind clothing and artisan goods store.
• Caja Marca 219 – French designer Tibault Van Der Straete’s high end housewares include vintage alpaca ponchos reworked into furniture and pillow covers.
• Artesanías Las Pallas – Even if you’ve hit a lot of craft markets, there is something to discover in this collection of unique hand-crafted objects from Peruvian artisans. 
• Uno – Venture up a tiny staircase to find three elegant rooms full of locally designed accessories and clothing. 
• Madam Pompom – Elegant handmade leather handbags and accessories.
• Amado Barranco –  Fun stop for vibrant vintage clothing.
• PUNA – Three different shops share an airy upstairs gallery space including local Peruvian gourmet products, ethereal candles etc, and beautifully woven rugs and home décor. 
• Dédalo –  Get happily lost in this warren of contemporary jewelry, crafts, clothing and art objects surrounding a lovely courtyard café. 
• Cuatre en un Baul – You might need extra luggage (or a shipping container?) after a visit to this enchantingly eclectic home store and gallery.
• NEO Concept store and Wu Gallery – Offers rotating art exhibitions, so check the schedule before you go or just pop in to see what you see!

EAT:

• Calle Jirón Domeyer – I challenge you to choose where to settle along this sweet little street, lined with fragrant bakeries and enticing doorways to tiny cafes and courtyards.
• La Bodega Verde – We had to break our “no repeats” rule to revisit the excellent smoothies in this sweet garden café.
• Singular – This gorgeous corner café resides in a beautifully restored home with high ceilings. Stop in for brunch at shady outdoor tables across the street from an epic view of the sea.
• Here are a few restaurants recommended by our awesome food tour company:
  • Central
  • Isolina
  • Cala
  • Kjolle
  • Meritó

STAY:

• Hotel B  – We had an excellent lunch at this elegant Relais & Chateaux property in an historic mansion, full of contemporary art and room to dine and unwind in the elegant bar, library, rooftop and patio. I might return to Lima just to stay here!
• Casa Republica Barranco – This stately boutique Hotel inhabits a renovated 1920’s mansion in the heart of the neighborhood with a roof deck and a pretty garden.

RESOURCES:

• Wanderlog – The 33 Best Art Galleries in Lima
• Travel + Leisure – Restaurant Guide to Barranco
• Heading to the high Andes after your stay in Lima? Prepare for ALTITUDE with this guide to thriving in the upper regions of Peru.