Lisbon: City of Light

“For the traveler who comes in from the sea, Lisbon, even from afar, rises like a fair vision in a dream, clear-cut against a bright blue sky which the sun gladdens with its gold.” Fernando Pessoa

TOURS:

Definitely take a tuk tuk tour! They are super fun and whip up and down all the hills all around town, delivering you to the top sights and best overlooks with a minimum of huffing it up the steep streets. Arrange in advance through Viator or Get Your Guide – or your hotel may be able to help you arrange. You can also sometimes just hail one. Make sure they take you all the way out to Belem.

Street Art tour – Lisbon has fantastic beautiful murals all over town and a guided tour is definitely a great way to get a perspective on the art scene and the culture of the city. There are walking tours and driving tours, but we loved the private tuk tuk street art tour we took, and it included a lot of general sightseeing as well. Here are a couple of tours to look at: Tuker, Airbnb

River cruise – Take an AWESOME cruise on the Tagus River in a beautiful traditional painted sailboat with Nosso Tejo. Sip vino verde as you watch the sun set over the 25 de Abril bridge – sister to San Francisco’s Golden Gate!

Food tour – Always take a food tour if you can and try to do it as early as possible in your trip so you have time to go back and eat more! Here are three to consider: Taste of Lisboa, Secret Food Tours, Culinary Backstreets

SIGHTS TO SEE AND THINGS TO CLIMB

Take an elevator ride up the Santa Justa elevator. Climb the rickety spiral stairs to the bar on top for not so cheap drinks but excellent views.
Castelo de São Jorge: Hike (or tuk tuk) up the hill to this amazing castle overlooking Lisbon, then climb some more inside the castle walls. Beautiful views of the city and beyond.
Lisbon Cathedral – Commonly known as the Sé, this is the oldest church in Lisbon dating back to the 12th century. Your ticket includes access to the High Choir with a bird’s eye view down the length of the church and the beautiful stained glass.
Miradouro da Senhora do Monte – Highest point in the area with amazing views over the city.

Bairro Alto:

Explore this charming neighborhood by day, with its cobbled streets, boutiques and coffee shops. Try a pastel de nata (mmm warm egg tart!) at Manteigaria. At night stores shutter and doors to cafes are flung open with festive tables full of grilled fish and deliciousness spilling out onto the streets.

Belém:

Plan a half day to explore this historic riverside neighborhood about 5km west of the center of town. You can take a tuk tuk or the tram out here (watch your pockets on the tram I hear…).

Jerónimos Monastery – This vast intricately decorated UNESCO World Heritage site is the resting place of Vasco da Gama and was built to commemorate his voyage to India. There are two additional museums inside: the Museu de Marinha, which is devoted to the naval history of Portugal and its famous navigators, and the Museu Nacional de Arqueologia which is closed for remodeling until 2026.
Jardím Botânica Tropical – Take a break from the city in this lovely botanical garden between the Monastery and the Belém Palace, the official residence of the president of Portugal.
You can’t miss the waterfront Monument to the Discoveries and the Torre de Belém – a 16th century tower where Portugal’s most famous explorers symbolically began their voyages.
Try the traditional pastries at the iconic Pastéis de Belem. However, if you don’t want to wait in line, there are other yummy places in town to get these such as Manteigaria with locations in Bairro Alto or the Time Out Market.
National Coach Museum – Prepare to be blown away by the grandeur of the horse-drawn carriages that belonged to the Portuguese royalty over the centuries.

MARKETS AND SHOPPING:

Campo Ourique Market – Part food market, part gourmet food hall. Yum.
Embaixada – Meander unique shops and boutiques tucked throughout this elegant former palace. Shopping heaven.
Feira de Ladra – Make time to stroll the huge open air flea market on Tuesdays and Saturdays in the old quarter.
Cortico e Netos – Need an authentic souvenir? Check out the vintage discontinued lines of Portuguese ceramic tiles.
Typographia – I love these cool t-shirts by local designers. Always something new.
LX Factory – Formerly an industrial area, this complex is now a cluster of unique shops, restaurants and galleries with an urban vibe. It’s definitely a great place to for lunch and afternoon shopping. Don’t miss the coolest bookstore Ler Devagar.

MUSEUMS:

Oceanário de Lisbon – The aquarium in Lisbon is amazing! Excellent activity with kids (or without kids!).
National Tile Museum – Yes the whole city is sort of a tile museum, but it’s still worth it to see the gorgeous collection housed in a beautiful former convent.
Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology – It’s impossible to miss this undulating white structure like a wave crashing over the riverbank. Designed by British architect Amanda Levete, it’s worth it just to step inside to marvel at the 7,000 square meters of exhibition space.
Electricity Museum – Now part of MAAT, it’s fun to tour this former thermoelectric power plant and learn about the history of energy.
Roman Theater – Those Romans made it everywhere! This is a super cool sight dating from the Roman occupation of Felicitas Iulia Olisipo (Lisbon) on the hill just above the cathedral. You can actually see the site from outside, but there is also a museum if you want to have a look at the artifacts.
Gulbenkian Museum – Beautiful museum with an important private art collection ranging from ancient to modern. Closed for renovation until July 2026.

Of course there are lots more! On my list:

MAC/CCB – Museum of Contemporary Art and Architecture Center just opened in 2023. Can’t wait to see it!
MUDE – Museum of Portuguese design in furniture, fashion and beyond.
Water Museum – An aqueduct, a reservoir and a steam pumping station are part of this museum all about the history of water in Lisbon.
Codfish History Museum – Just kidding! Everyone knows I hate salt cod. But maybe you want to go actually. It sounds surprisingly interesting.

EAT!!!

Á Cevicheria: Excellent, creative ceviche restaurant. They don’t take reservations and the line to be seated can be long, but have one of their amazing Pisco Sours while you wait.
Alma – Two Michelin stars. Fine dining heaven and probably one of the more fun tasting menus I’ve ever had.
Bastardo – for cocktails and contemporary Portuguese cuisine.
Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau – Visit this historic institution to watch chefs hand make the iconic codfish cakes filled with incredible local artisan cheese, and enjoy one piping hot with a glass of white port wine from the Douro region. Even I like this, and I have bacalhau ptsd.
Casa do Alentejo – beautiful traditional restaurant in an old mansion lined with tile murals
Confeitaria Nacional – Beautiful historic shop with elegant sweet and savory pastries and cakes. Great for breakfast.
Conserveira de Lisboa – hundred year old family-run business selling tinned seafood. Tinned seafood is BIG here!
Drinks on the Bairro Alto Hotel rooftop
Kais – incredible architecture in old warehouse on the river with amazing ambiance. Attached to a high-end nightclub if you want to have an after dinner drink on the river.
Manteigaria in Bairro Alto and Time Out Market for traditional Portuguese egg pastries.
Mis Can for adorable conservas and tapas and wine
Taberna da Rua das Flores – Is it worth the wait for this cash only no reservation little secret? Yes absolutely. But go early. The wait is real.
Time Out Market – a great way to sample a little bit of everything delicious!
Trevo – jammed super local café famous for the traditional bifana sandwiches. You might have to eat standing up bit you won’t regret it.
Ultimo Porto – low key portside restaurant for excellent grilled sardines and other seafood

Restaurants on my list for next time:

Leopold – intimate experimental multi-course menu served on small, square blocks of wood.
Pap’ Açorda – Above the Time Out Market, widely recommended. You MUST make reservations because it’s tiny.
Cervajeria Romero: Family-run seafood destination! The garlic shrimp and goose barnacles are recommended.
Gelateria Nannarella: Best gelato in Lisbon?
Baobá Café Bica – Excellent coffee and breakfast. Recommended recently by friends.
Meat eaters should go to the original Portugalia restaurant Avenida Almirante Reis. Big steaks in Portuguese styles.
Trinidade in Bairro Alto for traditional Portuguese – Arrive early or wait for tables, has a bar where you can wait with a beer.

FOODS TO TRY:

Vinho verde – It’s not really green, but rather young, slightly fizzy, relatively low alcohol.
Tinned seafood (conserva)
Caldo verde – Delicious homey soup. Ok this might not be your first choice on a hot summer day, but I now make it at home it’s the ultimate comfort food.
Grilled sardines – try to find a little restaurant on the street that grills them to order.
Bacalau – I really really hate this fish but everyone else on earth seems to love it and it’s a specialty of this area.
Ginjinha – The local cherry liqueur is tasty but packs a punch. A couple of local spots to try include: A Ginjinha and Ginjinha Sem Rival

DAY TRIP

About 45 minutes west of the city you can spend a full day exploring the UNESCO sites at Sintra including the quirky National Palace of Pena (prioritize this one if you are short on time), the National Palace of Sintra, the Montserrate Palace, the Palace of Queluz and more!

Stop for famous pastries queijadas at Queijadas da Sapa and travesseiro (pillow) at Casa Piriquita.
Cabo da Roca -Continental Europe’s westernmost point can be found at the end of a scenic road on a 150-meter cliff where the 1772 lighthouse looks straight across the sea to Delaware! Skip the restaurant.
I’m going back to stay at the luxury Fortaleza do Guincho hotel with its Michelin-starred restaurant overlooking the sea.
Continue your lovely coastal drive and stop in Cascais, a former fishing village with beaches, a marina and an historic seafront.
Grab a bite at Mercado de la Vila for the fun indoor market and incredibly fresh seafood