Marrakech: The Red City

“Marrakech teaches color.” – Yves Saint Laurent

Marrakech is a “must” destination in my opinion. Nowhere else on earth really approximates such intense immersion into living culture and history. It can be overwhelming, especially on your first visit. Your senses (not least your sense of direction!) will be bombarded at every turn. So, know that and then try to let go and let the sense of discovery be your guide.

Do you have a camera? It’s hard to really capture Marrakech on film, but it’s also hard to take a bad shot in this extremely photogenic city.

I am going to assume you’re going to visit the major sights, the labyrinthine Medina, the bustling Jemaa El Fna (main square), the imposing Koutoubia Mosque. Don’t skip the Badi Palace, the Bahia Palace, the Saadian Tombs, the Mederssa Ben Youssef, or the ethereally beautiful Jardins Majorelle with its fascinating Pierre Bergé Museum of Berber Arts.

I strongly recommend a guided tour of the city to get oriented, ideally one that includes a cultural visit to different artisans throughout the Medina. You have never been to a place with a more complicated layout, and hundreds if not thousands of years of history around every turn. Even if you choose to pleasantly lose yourself in the maze during your visit, it’s well worth it to have some frame of reference as you wander. Not to mention some tips to manage the intense bargaining you will experience absolutely everywhere! With Locals and Get Your Guide are two good websites to find guides.

Here are a few of my additional favorite stops around town:

Le Jardin Secret – Don’t miss this beautiful restored Islamic garden full of beautiful water features. Great stop for a cup of tea as well.
Maison de la Photographie – I LOVE this little museum of interesting cultural and historical photography in a lovely old house with a tiny café on on top
Women’s Museum – In the heart of the old town, this museum traces the history of women in Morocco through art, literature, music, education, politics, and social activism. There’s a nice little rooftop cafe as well!
Yves Saint Laurent Museum – Your Majorelle Gardens ticket should include access to this separate museum about the famous designer and his tenure in Marrakech.
Dar El Bacha – This restored 1912 palace was the resident of the former Pasha of Marrakech. Today it’s a beautiful museum full of incredible Moroccan art, gardens and architecture. The beautiful garden café is a standalone reason to visit. Queue up early!

On my list to visit next time:

Musée d’Art Contemporain Africain Al Maaden
LRNCE – Moroccan lifestyle brand with a focus on handmade goods
Moro – design studio, boutique hotel, restaurant and a curated store
Soufiane Zarib – there are a lot of rugs in Marrakech but these are truly works of art
Yahya Group – gorgeous metalwork lighting, furniture, accessories, decorative pieces by a self-taught designer and artist
Riad Yima – boutique and art gallery
Azalai – urban souk and restaurant. gorgeous furniture and decorative items.
33 Rue Majorelle – concept store with a bit of everything
Quartier Industriel Sidi Ghanem – design district with fashion, textiles, art, and home goods boutiques.

EAT!

Marrakech Food Tours – Guided street food tours in Marrakech and beyond. The food stalls on the main square are a major foodie destination, and a great guide will help you sample the best of the best.
Chez Ali – The Fantasia dinner show is totally touristy but it is also amazing entertainment. Great music, great food, show of horses, sound and lights, etc.
Culinary Arts Museum – Museum, tea room and cooking classes in a beautiful 18^th-century palace
Café Clock – Cafe, cooking classes, Moroccan storytelling, live music and more!
La Famille – Lovely delicious charming place for lunch in a little garden.
Le Salama – Rooftop restaurant overlooking the main square with traditional food and entertainment.
Nomad – Very popular rooftop “modern Moroccan” cuisine. You need a reservation!
Café des Epices – Good lunch spot in the heart of the Medina with rooftop seating overlooking a bustling square.
Le Jardin – Step through a secret door into oasis in the middle of the Medina. Make reservations!
Dar Moha – Elegant dining surrounding a beautiful tiled pool in an 18th-century home.
Amal – Lunch restaurant and training center which helps women from disadvantaged backgrounds build skills and experience to help them improve their economic and social standing. The food is great and the cause is important!
Kui Zin – Rooftop restaurant with live Andalusian music (check website for schedule), and cooking classes.

STAY:

* Riads:

Personally I don’t know why you would visit Marrakech and NOT stay in a traditional riad, basically a boutique hotel in an historic home. They are each unique, usually with traditionally decorated rooms surrounding a cool lovely courtyard. Try to find one with a central pool and a roof area to enjoy serene views of the city. It’s like staying in a luxurious secret garden, tucked away from the intense bustle of the city, sheltered from the heat of the day, your own little oasis of calm in the chaos. Here’s a list of recommended riads in Marrakech. No I have NOT stayed in all of them but each looks prettier than the next…

* Hotels:

La Maison Arabe – Such a beautiful small luxury hotel with a spa, a pool and excellent food.
La Mamounia – One of the most elegant and famous hotels in the world, set in a 17-acre garden walled within the center of town. At least go for a drink and/or dinner!
Les Jardins de la Koutoubia – When we needed a break from the city we were able to get day passes for the lovely large pool and gardens here, and had great treatments in their hammam/spa.