Morocco: Tips and Itineraries

There is just nowhere on Earth exactly like Morocco. It is so full of beauty and contrast that it’s a little hard to promise exactly what your experience will be. Just accept that it will subtly change your world view and resonate long after your visit. The beloved current king Mohammed VI has spent much of his reign following his father’s efforts to westernize, modernize, build and beautify, but most of the country is also still super traditional, ancient and proud. 

However you choose to spend your time, you will leave a lot of stones unturned and that’s ok.  The important thing is not to rush, but to soak up the incredible culture, delicious food, and hospitality along the way. If you have just 7-10 days, pick a region and dig in.  Here are a few suggested itineraries:

• Spend a few days in the bustling living labyrinth of Marrakesh. Catch your breath in the clear cool air of the spectacular Atlas Mountains nearby, then head west to the coast for a couple of days of seafood, camel rides and kite surfing.
• Meander the picture perfect medina in breezy Tangier with a glimpse of Spain across the Straits of Gibraltar. Spend a morning down the coast wandering the beautiful murals of Asilah, explore the mysterious Cave of Hercules, and enjoy a scenic cup of mint tea overlooking the meeting point of Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean at the World Heritage lighthouse at Cap Spartel. Turn east from Tangier to the Moorish/Andalusian coastal town of Tetouan, and on to the highly photogenic blue city of Chefchaouen.
• Do not miss the ancient city of Fez where you can truly immerse yourself in the UNESCO World Heritage medina, and add in a great side trip to the ancient hilltop city of Meknes, wine tasting, and the incredible Roman ruins at Volubilis.  If you have a few more days include a stop in the capital of Rabat and its suburb Salé for the official Royal Palace, national museums, beautiful gardens, several historic sites, and beach!

General tips:

• Women dress conservatively.  Not all tourists are expected to completely cover up, but it is respectful to cover your shoulders, chest, and knees. Sandals are ok, and you don’t need to cover your head (unless you’re going into a mosque which for the most part you are not welcome to do if you are not Muslim). 
• Men, surprise surprise, get a total hall pass on the dress code.  You’ll also see local men wearing almost floor length shirts called djellabas. 
• Women are physically safe in Morocco, but do not be surprised if men talk to you or follow you in the markets especially in Marrakech. I love to travel alone, but it is noticeably more relaxing to walk through the busy parts of town with a man by your side in most places. Sorry.
• People love to bargain in this country. Like NO KIDDING hard hard bargaining for everything.  I personally detest bargaining but it’s a thing.  So either hire a guide to be your buffer (super super helpful especially in Marrakech) or be prepared to power through this sometimes intense social exchange.
• A medina is typically the old part of a town or city with meandering streets, alleys, shops and residences, while the kasbah is more of a fortress/walled area with important military and religious buildings. Regardless of where you travel, try to visit these parts of town because they are usually the most historic, authentic and interesting.
• Try to find a traditional hamam somewhere along the way for a scrub, steam and a massage.  I know I don’t have to talk you into this.  It’s the best. 
• Never never point your camera at a soldier, guard or military person, especially near any royal residence. 
• On that note, it is polite to ask locals for permission to take their photographs. Women in particular are not always pleased to be the target of your lens. Smile, ask and be respectful.
• Eating, drinking, shaking hands, leaving a tip, exchanging items and all other socially acceptable activities should always be conducted with your right hand if possible. It is considered quite rude to use the left hand which is for personal hygiene and considered unclean.
• If you are traveling during Ramadan, dress and act conservatively and respect the fact that locals are fasting during the daytime. If you are not Muslim you don’t have to fast, but try not to eat, drink or smoke in public. We were fortunate to find ourselves in Marrakech on Eid al-Fitr which marks the end of the month-long period of fasting, and got to enjoy the festivities after the sun went down and residents and their families jammed the main square to celebrate.

Food to try:

• Order the Moroccan salads to begin your meal as often as possible! The dishes and presentation are delightfully different at each restaurant, but always include a rainbow of vegetables prepared in all sorts of creative ways, olives, and fantastic fresh bread to sop it all up.  Don’t forget this is just the appetizer!
• Common meats on menus include lamb, chicken and goat, but if you’re not a carnivore it is totally possible to ask for a vegetarian version of main dishes.
• Try a tagine! These traditional stews include a savory combination of meat, fish olives, stewed fruits, and other mmmmm ingredients baked in a covered earthenware dish of the same name. Bread is usually served to soak up all the goodness. Again, always and only use your right hand to dip it into the pot. You will definitely be tempted to adopt one of the beautifully glazed versions you’ll find in every market, which most shops will ship home for you.
• Make sure to ask for a side of harissa with your meal. This savory fiery chile paste is a Moroccan staple, and recipes vary from kitchen to kitchen so it’s worth trying everywhere if you have a taste for heat.
• Fresh semolina flour couscous is just its own ethereal thing – so fluffy and light. It is traditionally made by hand using a sieve and then steamed to perfection in a special basket. I was lucky enough to see a first-hand demonstration by the great Paula Wolfert and here is her recipe. Sorry you will never really enjoy boxed couscous again…
• Ubiquitous scalding hot mint tea is served with a daring pour technique.  It is totally polite to ask for less sugar if the massively sweet traditional version is too much for you.
• Most Moroccans of course do not drink alcohol, however you can order wine or other drinks in many restaurants and hotels, especially in bigger cities. Keep it in check though – public drunkenness is not cool here.
• Surprisingly, there are some decent wines grown in central and coastal Morocco.  These are rarely exported so try them when you can. Here’s a good article about the wine regions of Morocco.
• Juice!  Don’t miss it.  On street corners and markets all across Morocco you’ll find vendors who squeeze all sorts of the freshest fruit for you, including vivid cups of pomegranate and orange juice. This might change your juice game for life…

Language: Most people speak Arabic and French, and many speak at least a little English, especially in tourist hubs. Berber is also a national language, although it is a sort of amalgam of regional dialects. A few polite words of Arabic are always appreciated.

• Thank you = choukran
• Yes = wah
• No = lah
• Please = afak
• Ok = wakha
• Hello (peace be with you) = assalamu-alikum
• Cheers/bon appetit = besseha
• How are you? = labas
• No problem = mashi muskil
• Goodbye = bslama
• This is delicious = hadshi bneen

Here are some links for inspiration and planning. More to come from me on specific cities and regions as well!

• http://travel.nationalgeographic.com/travel/best-family-trips/marrakech/
• http://www.tourdust.com/blog/posts/morocco-with-children
• http://www.onthegotours.com/us/Morocco#Family-Holidays
• https://www.responsiblevacation.com/vacations/morocco/travel-guide/morocco-with-kids