New Orleans: A Confederacy of Dishes

“Don’t you just love those long rainy afternoons in New Orleans when an hour isn’t just an hour, but a little piece of eternity dropped into your hands and who knows what to do with it?” – Tennessee Williams

New Orleans is of course famous for its destination events like Jazz Fest, Mardi Gras and the French Quarter Festival, when throngs of festive locals and visitors start the party early, feast on the best of everything, and dance away into the wee hours and beyond. I however prefer the city on just a plain old “normal” week without major special events to clog restaurant reservations, cram social commitments, and mandate lots of show tickets and planning. New Orleans is magical, and to me it is a gift to have time to meander around tuning in, delighting in discoveries, people watching, lingering with the ambiance, breathing in the scenery, and of course working up an appetite for my next meal!!

DINING:

Dinner –

• August – fine dining in a beautiful historic building – great for a special occasion
• Cochon – one of the best for locally sourced Creole cuisine
• La Petite Grocerie – creative NOLA fare on a charming corner of Magazine Street
• Jacquimo’s – prepare to come early and wait in line for the best fried chicken and other classic NOLA dishes at this awesome Uptown spot
• Domenica – elegant surroundings and upscale Italian dishes (omg the roasted whole cauliflower…) in the gorgeous old Roosevelt Hotel. Don’t miss the Sazerac Bar down the hall.
• Luke – another lovely upscale Creole destination
• Bayona – chef Susan Spicer’s renowned casual fine dining in a charming cottage with a romantic courtyard
• Pelican Club – elegant white tablecloth establishment in a 19th-century townhouse in the French Quarter
• Compère Lapin – Charming Caribbean Creole in the Warehouse District

Lunch –

• Napoleon House – historic bar in the French Quarter only open for lunch. Sip a Pimm’s Cup and a order a muffuletta in the courtyard.
• Central Grocery – this deli near the French Market is basically muffuletta headquarters but has sadly been closed for a while for post-hurricane repairs. The great news is that they have started making their famous sandwiches again and have a list on their website where you can find them around town. Plan to share – a whole sandwich is huge.
• Shaya – mouthwatering Israeli Lebanese restaurant on Magazine Street.  Make reservations!
• Royal House Oyster Bar – po-boys, benedicts and of course plump gulf oysters are the fare here.

Breakfast/brunch –

• Willa Jean – Fantastic fantastic everything brunchy and great ambiance
• Beignets – the lines are long and the powdered sugar thick in the air, but you really can’t miss beignets and local coffee at Cafe du Monde .  Cafe Beignet also makes a mean version and has several locations around town. Here’s a good guide to the Best Beignets around town.
• Jazz Brunch – several famous classic establishments offer wonderful brunches
  • Court of Two Sisters – classic in the epicenter of the French Quarter
  • Commander’s Palace – Garden District classic helmed by a parade of celebrity chefs.
  • Arnaud’s – a beautiful tin ceiling NOLA staple for over 100 years. Don’t miss the French 75 Bar and the Mardi Gras museum upstairs.

Bars –

• Hot Tin – perched on top of the Pontchartrain Hotel, this snug bar offers some of the best views over the city.
• Carousel Bar – park yourself under a vintage carousel with a fancy cocktail in the bar off the lobby of the historic Hotel Monteleone, as you contemplate the literary greats who preceded you, including Hemingway, Welty, Faulkner and Tennessee Williams.
• French 75 – sip classic cocktails in this cozy extension of Arnaud’s restaurant
• Sazerac Bar – an elegant old venue in the glamorous the Roosevelt Hotel
• The Columns Hotel – one of my favorite stops every time I visit. The interior of this old house in the Garden District is super cool, but I prefer to enjoy my Pimm’s Cup on the generous front porch.
• Pirate’s Alley – tucked to the side of the cathedral you’ll find pirates, absinthe, and the occasional vampire enjoying this little corner
• Bacchanal – great wine and cheese bar in an outdoor garden with live music of course

MUSIC

There is never any shortage of great music both on and off the street in NOLA. Check schedules for these venues to see what’s on while you’re in town:

• Frenchman Street – go after dinner for great bars and live music all along the street
• Howlin Wolf
• House of Blues
• Tipitina’s
• Preservation Hall
• Maple Leaf
• House of Blues

AROUND TOWN

• Take a river cruise on the Steamboat Natchez – we do this EVERY time we visit!  It is super peaceful, and you learn a ton along the way about the river and history of the area.
• Book a swamp tour – they take at least a half day, but very interesting to see the bayou and learn about the ecosystem

Garden District

• Ride the streetcar and admire stately homes in the garden district along St. Charles from the French Quarter to Audubon Park.  Stop at the Columns Hotel for a drink on the front porch along the way.  Walk back along Magazine Street – packed with awesome little shops, boutiques and restaurants.

French Quarter

• Go antique shopping on Charters and Royal streets in the French quarter.  Be sure to stop by Bevolo to admire beautiful gas lamps.  Browse the beautifully bound book series at Faulkner Books in the rooms where William Faulkner lived for a bit. Take a guided horse and carriage tour at night for some spooky history.

Bywater

• I am intrigued by The Music Box – an outdoor “sonic sculpture garden” with live music and events.
• Lucullus – elegant old world culinary antiques and beautiful thing for the gracious southern home
• The Country Club – this hidden little pool club behind a beautiful house offers day passes for the restaurant, pool bar and cabanas. A perfect way to cool off and recuperate from all the NOLA fun!

RESOURCES:

• New Orleans History: https://www.hnoc.org/publications/first-draft/new-orleans-history-starter-pack-beginners-guide-understanding-crescent
• Eater Guide: https://nola.eater.com/
• Three Perfect Days: https://www.neworleans.com/plan/itineraries/essential-new-orleans-three-day-itinerary/
• Food tour ideas: https://www.destination-kitchen.com/tours
• Literary tour of the French Quarter – http://www.frommers.com/slideshows/845263-new-orleans-10-literary-landmarks
• Swamp and plantation tours: https://www.cajunencounters.com/
• Self-guided walking tours: https://www.nolatourguy.com/free-self-guided-walking-tours-of-new-orleans-with-maps/ and https://www.gpsmycity.com/gps-tour-guides/new-orleans-596.html